This is a tank I built with radio control. It was one of          the things I made when I got tired of the Hercules.          Sidetracked is the common term for it.
       Facts
       The tank uses an old radio control from Sanwa that I used          to fly model airplanes with. I took the servos and stuff and LEGOlized          them in order to manipulate the polarity switches found in the 8480          Space shuttle.
       I used five servos, five polarity switches and five 9V motors.          Two of the motors was the micro motor also found in the 8480 Space shuttle          sets. Did I mention I like the 8480?
       The tank is built mainly in white since almost all my black          parts were used to build the wing of the Hercules and to make a "snow          camouflaged" tank. The first snow for the winter 2000/2001 was falling          outside you see.
       I dubbed it "Lynx" 'cause I really like that animal          and it's pretty common up here where I live (Sweden in Scandinavia). Also          the Lynx is a powerful animal that is quite happy with the snow, I think          :)
       I'm not sure why I wanted to build a tank now six months          later, but I did.
       The tank had the following functions:
       - Dual caterpillar treads for movement and steering. Powered          directly (1:1 gear ratio) by a 9V mini motor (the type that comes with          the Mindstorms kit). One for each tread. The motors were controlled by          polarity switches that in turn was controlled by my servos. I used the          rare chain link type treads mostly to show them off.
       - Turret that could spin 360-degrees and beyond. The limit          was when the electrical wires got too tangled, it never happened so I          imagine it would have taken a lot of spinning on that turret... The turret          was powered by a third 9V mini motor and pol. switch/servo combination.
       - The gun in the turret could be raised lowered using a          micro motor and pol. switch/servo.
       - The cannon could be fired using the second micro motor.
       So, all in all the tank had what it took to be remotely          operated and hunt our cats or sneak up on my coworkers. They got really          scared (the coworkers, not the cats. What do you take me for?) when I          made surprise attacks on them.
       The tank had two limits: 1. The treads did not have enough          friction to drive over doorsteps. 2. The lower/raise part of the cannon          was painfully slow and took the surprise effect away from shooting at          my coworkers. I did manage to get around limit #2 slightly by raising          the cannon before driving into their offices.
       The tank also delayed my main project, the Hercules. I wanted          to take some pictures of the tank in snow (the snow that fell the day          I built it quickly melted away over night) so I waited the longest time          for a holiday (I needed the light) with snow, but it never occurred. So          I tore the tank down about a month after finishing it, and see! The snow          fell. Define irony the one who can ,) (It's really when the word opposite          the real life).
We start our graphic tour              of the Lynx by displaying the whole thing. Note the whiteness on everything              but the cannon. I'd like to have one of these in another color like              white or black. Yes, I know they exist I don't think the sets carrying              them is worth the money though.

Moving on to the back. Nothing much to say here really. You'll                see a better shot of the micro motor raising/lowering the cannon                further down on this page. Promise.
             Just so say something, the back has a nice flat surface to allow                missiles and grenades make a better impact on the tank. Modern tank                have non 90-degree (measuring from the ground) armor to make grenades                bounce off and to be more invisible on radar.

Tipping the tank on it's side displays the under carriage. It's                pretty flat to make it able to skid over rough terrain. Now if only                the treads could stop skidding. Just kidding. Oh my God, I'm lame..
             Moving on folks!

As promised, here is the micro              motor that drives the axle that turns the worm gear that drives the              z24 gear fixed to the cannon that makes the cannon raise or lower.              Oh, I mentioned it's a slow-motion thingie right? Also, did I mention              that English grammar ain't my strongest side?

Here is a photoshoped image of the cannons extensions. To travel                the whole distance the tank needs 26 seconds. Now that's slow!
             If you didn't understand my comment on the previous picture, this                movement is what the micro motor does.

Here is the cannon itself              with the trigger. When the micro motor spins it tightens the rubber              band enough to pull the trigger.

Here is a view of the front.              Don't mock with it ,)

This is how much ground clearance              the tank had. The bottom is nice and flat.

This shot shows the main motors              that drove the treads. As you can see they drove them directly with              no gears. To save the motors it was actually a good thing the treads              has such a lousy grip. The two motors were individually controlled              to allow for steering.

Here's a pic of how the servos              were attached. The yellow beams "float" in the air and is              not attached to anything but the polarity switches using rubber bands              and short pins for higher friction.

This is a pic I took while              taking the tank apart. This is how the polarity switches and servos              were attached...

...and from another view.

Yet another view. I know there              are people that wants to know how I did this, hence the many pictures.              Sowwy 8)

And from above. The black              thing to the right that isn't a polarity switch is the receiver for              the remote control equipment.

And now to the final shot              of the servos. Here is a view from the bottom. I took the plates away              to reveal the servos and receiver.

This is actually a video clip that I've taken frames from to make                a chart of stills with. This clip is shot from a tripod so the camera                never moves. I drive the tank into picture, aligns the cannon and                fires a shot at the camera (yes, I hit the camera).

Moving on with the tour, here              is the left side of the tank. The blue tube on the outside contains              the antenna for the remote control. I should be able to be about a              kilometer away from the tank and still control it safely. I had no              trouble being in another room sneaking up on my coworkers *evil grin*.

Taking a look at the right              side the only difference is that the blue antenna tube is missing.              The single bent liftarms is only there as design/camouflage.

This is another clip shot from the tripod. Here I display the "Target                tracking" function. Target tracking means that the cannon is                always locked on a target as the tank moves around. This tank don't                really have such a function, the timing of a one tread turn and                the spinning of the turret just creates such an illusion. So, I                turn the tank in one direction and turns the turret in the other                ét voila!

If you've somehow managed              to miss the awesome tread links and this is the first time you see              them, here's a couple of shots of them. They interact just like the              Technic chain link and the two link types can be putted together This              type is like a three stud wide chain link. It's made of the same type              of plastic so the grip is next to nothing.

The friction can be increased              by either making a pattern of ordinary chain links and tread links              or by putting ordinary 1x3+ plates on every second or third tread              link. I wanted this slip to allow for better turning and to save my              motors since they were attached directly to the drive axis using no              gears at all.

Here's another tripod video clip that I've made as an picture series.                This clip displays the turning capabilities of the tank. Here I                drive the treads in opposite direction to make a very tight turn.                The tank needs but four seconds to complete a revolution*.

*A revolution in the term of turning 360 degrees, not to take over                a country, that would take considerable more time with this fire                once plastic toy :)
Here's a more detailed view              of the turret. You can see both micro motors in this shot.

Here's another photoshoped image of the movement of the tank. This                pic. displays the turret's rotation. As mentioned it can turn several                revolutions before tangling itself up in the electric wires. I never                reached that point during my period of playing with the tank.
             It takes the tank eight seconds to move the turret 360 degrees.

Close up of the motor and              gear train that makes the turret rotate. I had to lower the motor              down in the chassis so it wouldn't be in the way of the turret. The              new style gear on the right does not do anything, but it was a nice              gear so I putted it there instead of a bushing. Also it's useful for              manually turning the turret when the cannon is positioned above the              other gears.

No tears now, but this is the final photo. It's another tripod                clip displaying a wide turn using only one tread. The tank completes                a wide turn in 6.5 seconds.
 
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